Tag Archives: braised

Rosh Hashana Dinner- Beef Brisket, Latkes with Apples & Honey

Please enjoy this Rosh Hashana blog from last year. One of my favorite recipes. I make for clients regularly. If you want to tone down the spice, use a bit less chili powder.

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For some reason, people regularly assume that I am Jewish. It’s also often assumed that I am a New Yorker. The truth is I am neither. Born and raised in San Jose, California by two protestant parents. (Although I am a quarter German.)

Still, I find that our culinary history is rooted in cultural traditions. All great food owes it’s creation to the chef’s cultural influences.  For that reason, I try to make food from as many different cultural backgrounds as possible.

So, with today being Rosh Hashana, the  first day of the Jewish new year and the beginning of the high holidays, I wanted to take the opportunity to visit what I feel is one of the most overlooked influences on modern cuisine: Kosher cooking.

As an outsider looking in, I wasn’t exactly sure where to begin. I mean, I knew of certain stereotypical Kosher meals like Matzoh Ball soup, Bagels and Lox, and Challah Bread, but I had no idea what traditions there might be for Rosh Hashana. So I turned to my friends. I asked all of my Jewish friends what their families ate for Rosh Hashana. I also did some of my own research.

What I found out was that, while apples and honey are the traditional food to eat for Rosh Hashana to symbolize having a sweet year, there was no official traditional dinner. Everyone I asked said virtually the same thing, “I don’t remember there being anything traditional except honey and apples… but my mom always made brisket.”

So, brisket it is. It is always one of the cheapest cuts of meat at the supermarket, so it is easy to make at five dollars per person any time of the year. The trouble is, that it is a cheap cut for a reason. It is a tough flavorless cut, that is most commonly brined to make corned beef.

While it is most traditional to boil the brisket on the stove, I decided to braise it in the oven in beef broth and beer to pump up the flavor and keep the roast nice and moist. I used He’Brew Messiah Bold Ale by Scmaltz Brewing Co. to keep the meal kosher, but any nut brown ale will do. Reducing the pan juices into a gravy after removing the brisket really made the meal amazing. When I cook this again I will serve noodles topped with the gravy.

To make this meal as traditional for Rosh Hashanah as possible, though, I made Latkes as a side dish. The crispy onion potato cakes paired amazingly with the apples and honey for a great sweet and savory flavor.

Braised Beef Brisket

Dry Rub:

2 Tablespoons chili powder (or 1 Tablespoon cayenne pepper)

2 Tablespoons salt

2 Tablespoons garlic powder

2 Tablespoons onion powder

1 tablespoon ground black pepper

1 Tablespoon sugar

2 bay leaves, crushed

Brisket and Gravy:

4 pound beef brisket, trimmed

approx. 1 cup beef stock

1 (12 oz.) dark brown beer

2 Tablespoons olive oil

2 Tablespoons butter

  1. Mix the ingredients for the dry rub, adjusting flavors to taste. Rub brisket at least 1 hour prior to cooking and up to the morning of cooking.
  2. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.
  3. Heat olive oil in a dutch oven. When heated brown the brisket on all sides. Once browned, roast the brisket, uncovered, for one hour.
  4. After the first hour, remove the dutch oven from the oven (be careful! Use hot pads. I can’t count how often I forget to do this and burn myself) and lower the temperature to 300 degrees.
  5. Add beer and beef stock to the bottom of the Dutch oven. There should be ½ inch of liquid in the bottom, so depending on your particular pot, you may need to increase or decrease the amount of beef stock.
  6. After allowing the oven to cool to 300 degrees (about 10 minutes) return the Dutch oven to the oven, covered, and braise for 3 more hours.
  7. After 3 hours, remove the Dutch oven. Remove the brisket and set aside on a plate covered by tin foil. Place the dutch oven on the stove over high heat and bring to a boil. (Again, use hot pads! The Dutch oven handles will remain hot as you reduce the sauce.)
  8. After the sauce has reduced by half. Add 2 Tablespoons chilled butter 1 Tablespoon at a time to help thicken the gravy.
  9. After letting the brisket sit for 15 minutes, slice against the grain (the grain is the direction all of those lines in the beef are running) and serve, passing the gravy.

Potato Latkes

1 pound gold potatoes (2 really large potatoes, or 3 to 4 smaller potatoes)

1/2 cup finely chopped onion

1 large egg

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/2 cup olive oil

thinly sliced apples and honey (optional)

  1. Coarsely grate the potatoes, transferring them to a large bowl of cold water as grated to keep them from browning. After all the potatoes are grated drain them well in a colander.
  2. Spread grated potatoes and onion on a paper towel and roll up. Twist towel tightly to wring out as much liquid as possible. Transfer potato mixture to a bowl and stir in egg and salt.
  3. Heat olive oil pan over medium high heat until hot and shimmering. Working in batches of 4 latkes, spoon  about 2 tablespoons potato mixture per latke into the pan, spreading into 3-inch rounds. Fry latkes until golden brown on each side, about 5 minutes.
  4. Serve with thinly sliced apples and honey for dipping.  These are best when a bite of apple, latke and honey are eaten all together.

Stout Braised Lamb Shanks – French Cooking with a Twist

As I noticed recently while writing my weblog on Chicken Marsala, I have written 6 Italian recipes and 0 French recipes. While, I’ve tried defending myself by pointing out that this is a budget blog specializing in cooking meals for under 5 dollars a head, not all of French cuisine is foie gras and escargot. In fact, I think most of the really great French cuisine is elevated peasant food: Coq au Vin, Beef Bourguignon, ratatouille, and crepes.

So, it is a bit of a travesty that I have been blogging for a half a year now, and not posted one French dish. I mean, let’s face it, France really is the father of modern dining. With that in mind I have decided to post a French-inspired recipe of my favorite meat of all time: lamb. (Say it with me now, with your best Homer Simpson impression, mmm…Lamb.)

Lamb is a lovely meat. Depending on the cut it can be seared rare, roasted, or slow cooked. I love them all. It’s not the cheapest meat of all time, though unless you live in Australia (where it is cheaper than chicken, I swear.) The shanks (the leg meat) is affordable when you are lucky enough to find it. I am not sure why most grocery stores only carry it about half of the time, but whenever you do find it, is one of the cheapest cuts of lamb.

I remember the first time I bought lamb shanks, I had no idea what I was buying. I was living in Australia with Jodie at the time, and, like I said, lamb was dirt cheap. I had made lamb many ways while we were there. This was when I was very young and had very little experience cooking, mind you. So, I bought two lamb shanks took them home, and promptly seared them rare in a skillet. If you know anything about shank meat, it takes hours for the connective tissue to break down and become the tender amazing flesh we are used to having. Otherwise you are trying to chew on what amounts to gristle. Let’s just say that pizzas were ordered that night.

This is why the French invented braising. Braising is when you take a tough piece of meat full of fat and connective tissues and cook it long and slow until it melts into the meat and creates a tender, buttery sensation in your mouth that English doesn’t have proper words to describe. Peasants often used this method because these cuts of the meat were not considered as desirable to the upper class (who were clearly lazy and dumb.)

Now, if you have been reading my blog, I hope you have noticed that I like to take very traditional foods of any culture and give them my own modern  twist. The same is true with my lamb shank.

In France it is traditional to braise your shank with Burgandy wine. (That is there way of saying Pinot Noir, basically…more on that another time.) While I like cooking in wine…I love cooking in beer. So, I replaced the wine with a dark porter or stout. (Such as Guinness or Murphy’s.) Don’t worry, wine fanatics, the resulting shanks will still pair very well with a Pinot Noir. I would recommend Cambria if you can spring for it. Of course, it also pairs perfectly well with whatever beer you cooked it in. I like to serve it with the coarsely chopped vegetables I cooked the lamb in over cous cous. One of my favorite meals I know how to make. Divine. (While I travelled in Europe, my favorite food was Italian in general, but the best meal I had was in France. It is similar in my own kitchen. I prefer Italian, but some of my absolute favorite recipes are French.)

Stout Braised Lamb Shanks

1 Tbsp vegetable oil

4 lamb shanks

flour for dredging

2 leeks, halved lengthwise and chopped 1/4” thick

6 cloves garlic, halved or quartered

2 carrots, chopped ½“ thick

2 celery ribs, chopped coarsely

2 tbsp tomato paste

1 (12 fluid ounce) bottle stout (such as Guinness®) or porter

1 ¾ cup beef broth

8 to 10 mushrooms, halved or quartered

3 sprigs fresh thyme

1 bay leaf

1 sprig fresh rosemary

2 tbsp olive oil

salt and pepper to taste

  1. Dredge lamb shanks in flour.
  2. Heat oil in a dutch oven or large, wide pot over medium-high heat until shimmering. Sear the lamb shanks in the hot oil on all sides until well browned, about 10 minutes. This can be done 2 lamb shanks at a time, if all 4 do not fit in your pot at the same time.  After browning, remove lamb shanks and set aside.
  3. Pour the excess grease from the Dutch oven, if necessary, reduce heat to medium, and stir in the onions and garlic. Cook and stir until the onions have softened and turned translucent, about 5 minutes.
  4. Stir in the carrots, celery, and tomato paste; continue cooking 5 minutes more.
  5. Return the lamb shanks to the dutch oven, and pour in the stout beer and beef broth. Add thyme and bay leaf and bring to a simmer over high heat.
  6. Once the lamb shanks begin to simmer, reduce the heat to medium-low, cover, and simmer until the lamb is very tender and nearly falling off of the bone, 2 to 3 hours. Stir the lamb occasionally as it cooks, and add water if needed to keep the cooking liquid from becoming too thick (I rarely find this needed.) You want the cooking liquid to have reduced into a nice sauce by the time the lamb shanks are done. Stir in the mushrooms, rosemary sprig, and salt and pepper to taste during the last 10 minutes of cooking. Remove rosemary, thyme sprigs and bay leaf before serving. Serve shanks and vegetables over cous cous or orzo pasta immediately, passing the remaining sauce.

Rosh Hashana Dinner- Beef Brisket, Latkes with Apples & Honey

For some reason, people regularly assume that I am Jewish. It’s also often assumed that I am a New Yorker. The truth is I am neither. Born and raised in San Jose, California by two protestant parents. (Although I am a quarter German.)

Still, I find that our culinary history is rooted in cultural traditions. All great food owes it’s creation to the chef’s cultural influences.  For that reason, I try to make food from as many different cultural backgrounds as possible.

So, with today being Rosh Hashana, the  first day of the Jewish new year and the beginning of the high holidays, I wanted to take the opportunity to visit what I feel is one of the most overlooked influences on modern cuisine: Kosher cooking.

As an outsider looking in, I wasn’t exactly sure where to begin. I mean, I knew of certain stereotypical Kosher meals like Matzoh Ball soup, Bagels and Lox, and Challah Bread, but I had no idea what traditions there might be for Rosh Hashana. So I turned to my friends. I asked all of my Jewish friends what their families ate for Rosh Hashana. I also did some of my own research.

What I found out was that, while apples and honey are the traditional food to eat for Rosh Hashana to symbolize having a sweet year, there was no official traditional dinner. Everyone I asked said virtually the same thing, “I don’t remember there being anything traditional except honey and apples… but my mom always made brisket.”

So, brisket it is. It is always one of the cheapest cuts of meat at the supermarket, so it is easy to make at five dollars per person any time of the year. The trouble is, that it is a cheap cut for a reason. It is a tough flavorless cut, that is most commonly brined to make corned beef.

While it is most traditional to boil the brisket on the stove, I decided to braise it in the oven in beef broth and beer to pump up the flavor and keep the roast nice and moist. I used He’Brew Messiah Bold Ale by Scmaltz Brewing Co. to keep the meal kosher, but any nut brown ale will do. Reducing the pan juices into a gravy after removing the brisket really made the meal amazing. When I cook this again I will serve noodles topped with the gravy.

To make this meal as traditional for Rosh Hashanah as possible, though, I made Latkes as a side dish. The crispy onion potato cakes paired amazingly with the apples and honey for a great sweet and savory flavor.

Braised Beef Brisket

Dry Rub:

2 Tablespoons chili powder (or 1 Tablespoon cayenne pepper)

2 Tablespoons salt

2 Tablespoons garlic powder

2 Tablespoons onion powder

1 tablespoon ground black pepper

1 Tablespoon sugar

2 bay leaves, crushed

Brisket and Gravy:

4 pound beef brisket, trimmed

approx. 1 cup beef stock

1 (12 oz.) dark brown beer

2 Tablespoons olive oil

2 Tablespoons butter

  1. Mix the ingredients for the dry rub, adjusting flavors to taste. Rub brisket at least 1 hour prior to cooking and up to the morning of cooking.
  2. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.
  3. Heat olive oil in a dutch oven. When heated brown the brisket on all sides. Once browned, roast the brisket, uncovered, for one hour.
  4. After the first hour, remove the dutch oven from the oven (be careful! Use hot pads. I can’t count how often I forget to do this and burn myself) and lower the temperature to 300 degrees.
  5. Add beer and beef stock to the bottom of the Dutch oven. There should be ½ inch of liquid in the bottom, so depending on your particular pot, you may need to increase or decrease the amount of beef stock.
  6. After allowing the oven to cool to 300 degrees (about 10 minutes) return the Dutch oven to the oven, covered, and braise for 3 more hours.
  7. After 3 hours, remove the Dutch oven. Remove the brisket and set aside on a plate covered by tin foil. Place the dutch oven on the stove over high heat and bring to a boil. (Again, use hot pads! The Dutch oven handles will remain hot as you reduce the sauce.)
  8. After the sauce has reduced by half. Add 2 Tablespoons chilled butter 1 Tablespoon at a time to help thicken the gravy.
  9. After letting the brisket sit for 15 minutes, slice against the grain (the grain is the direction all of those lines in the beef are running) and serve, passing the gravy.

Potato Latkes

1 pound gold potatoes (2 really large potatoes, or 3 to 4 smaller potatoes)

1/2 cup finely chopped onion

1 large egg

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/2 cup olive oil

thinly sliced apples and honey (optional)

  1. Coarsely grate the potatoes, transferring them to a large bowl of cold water as grated to keep them from browning. After all the potatoes are grated drain them well in a colander.
  2. Spread grated potatoes and onion on a paper towel and roll up. Twist towel tightly to wring out as much liquid as possible. Transfer potato mixture to a bowl and stir in egg and salt.
  3. Heat olive oil pan over medium high heat until hot and shimmering. Working in batches of 4 latkes, spoon  about 2 tablespoons potato mixture per latke into the pan, spreading into 3-inch rounds. Fry latkes until golden brown on each side, about 5 minutes.
  4. Serve with thinly sliced apples and honey for dipping.  These are best when a bite of apple, latke and honey are eaten all together.

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